Enameling Blog of Cloisonné & Many Other Enameling Techniques
Welcome to my Enameling Blog of Cloisonné Jewelry Techniques and others such as Plique a Jour, Champlevé Enameling and yes Painting Enamels. My site is a donation of everyone’s time to share and further the education of the fine art of enameling techniques. I am very happy to answer questions to help you, but please ask here and not emailing me directly. At the bottom of this page there is a comment section. Look forward to hearing from you. Thanks!!
I share my life’s passion and inspiration with anyone who wishes to read. I am a self-taught enamelist and goldsmith. I did not live here in the US where there was a knowledge base and to my advantage, my knowledge came from trial and error and today I continue to build on trial and error.
Read test analyze and you will surely learn.
Notice: if you are having trouble contacting Bovano to order your Soyer Enamels it is best to email them. jim@bovano.com They are currently shorthanded.
Online Classes
With many staying home this is a great opportunity for online courses. And from our one of a kind, US Master Enamelist I am proud to feature Merry-Lee Rae.
Merry-Lee Rae
“My favorite teaching venue is in my own studio where I am able to offer intensive, personalized instruction with 10-12 students for a duration of 5 days. It is a perfect opportunity for those of you wishing to establish strong technical skills whether you are an experienced enamellist or an aspiring beginner.”
Wow! Who would have anticipated that our plans could change so abruptly! But with our nation’s current situation, I am adaptable and my students are so amazing and I wanted a way to keep them engaged and focused as I postponed all of my workshops.
And so Merry-Lee Rae’s Online Classroom was born!
You will find it located at www.merryleerae.thinkific.com
See the Jewelry Collection
“Custom Cloisonne Jewelry and Custom Enamel Jewelry are a delight to me. Contact me if I can create a jewel of your very own inspired personal adornment! All of my creations are One of a Kind Jewelry, whether in Cloisonne Necklaces, Cloisonne Earrings or Enamel Jewels such as Plique a Jour, I am thrilled to design for you.”
Patsy Croft
TOPICS
EVERY BOX BELOW IS A TOPIC OF ENAMELING, MUCH LIKE A CHAPTER. THERE IS ALSO AN OPTION TO ASK QUESTIONS IN EACH AND I WILL BE HAPPY TO SHARE.
The Matilija Poppy and The Mendocino Poppy Project
Mendocino Poppy Project
by Tom Herman and Patsy Croft
Check out our 2-year journey at https://alohilanidesigns.com/matilija-poppy/
Hi
I am a novice at enameling. Everything is fine when I use enamel on copper but silver I am having a terrible time. My finished piece seems fine for awhile. After a month or so I first notice the counter enamel flaking off, then the front enamel slides right off the piece. I am using fine silver 22 g.
I would really appreciate any insight that you may have to this problem.
…Jean
Hi Jean,
Sorry to hear you are having problems, I am happy to help you figure out what is causing this.
Let’s start with basic questions.
What enamels are you using?
Are you laying down the enamels on FS the same way you lay them down on the copper?
Are you using flux for Fine Silver? Which one?
I use fine silver from Hauser and Miller, not sure if there are suppliers in PR. But very important, I slide the sheet right out of the paper wrapped silver pouch, cut to size and add my washed enamel.( I wet pack all my enamels) With clean hands. It is important not to touch the silver.
I always add flux the the front of the FS sheet first, fire, then add to the back. Sometimes I add Klyre-Fire to the counter enamel, apply to the back, then add flux to the front and fire both at the same time.
Are you firing the flux to maturity? Flux is a harder enamel than our transparent or opaque enamels. So fire it to a smooth surface, so it can grab to the fine silver surface.
What do you mean by flaking off, of the counter enamel? Can you add a photo?
Look forward to hearing back. Patsy
Hi Patsy
Thanks for answering so quickly.
I am using Thompson transparent enamels on fs.
I buy my silver sheet from Rio Grande
As with copper I wet pack the enamel on fs
The flux used is Thompson clear for silver 2020
Silver is prepared by sanding to a high gloss followed with washing with dish soap then “flashing” the silver
I wash the enamel but don’t grade sift
Usually the back is fluxed and fired first
Thanks for your consideration
Jean
Jean,
When you buy the silver you should not need to sand to a high polish. You should not touch it at all on the surface. Just the edges. And no soap!
If you take it out of package with clean hands, and only touching the edges, cut your shape not using any oils on your saw blade. Flash if you like. And flux the front first.
If you find the need to clean at all use alcohol and then rinse very very well. Then flash. Again being careful never touch the surface.
Try and let me know how it goes. Patsy
Hi Patsy
OK Sanded and Sanded and Sanded finally removed most of the pitting however now I have several large cracks..Can I re fire now? Also do I need counter as I have plenty on the back up to the wire
It looks better….BUT I think it is time to use a small round ball bur and remove the pits. There is not much. Then clean well with a glass brush, dry, fire, and fill the recession.
Oh course there will be another round of sanding but I am sure if you stick with it you will be happy you did *)
When you sand again start at 600…
Yes 1 coat of n4 and seems like trouble started after this fire.
Shirley,
This is why I do not use top coats. I know some enamelist do. When I get to the point of enameling my jewel where I am happy with the colors but there is still space left to fill my wires I use the lightest color on that family to finish filling the cell.
For now I do not see the top of your cloison wires, so sand it down more with 600, then 1200 grit and see if you get below the N4. Maybe that is all you need. Keep me informed.
This is the wing blown up shows the pitting
Shirley did you add a top coat?
After polishing my new piece there seems to be pitting on the surface. should I refire to eliminate this? Why does this happen?
Shirley can you get a better photo. Can not see the pits.
And tell me more. How are you polishing? Are the pits in all of the enamels?
Patsy
Wow! This is so scary!
Put my domes on top of the kiln, heated to about 90 degrees,we have a temp gauge, put jewel in kiln upside down and heated, 1450 degrees for 2 minutes. Very Hot! Wearing my welding gloves took lower dome and put in front of kiln, took jewel out slid into dome placed top dome on and pushed lightly. let cool and when removed it was re domed with a few small cracks that healed with a re fire. I am so blown away. It looks beautiful. With help from an amazing Enamelist and friend my jewel will live on.
Thank you so much Patsy you are so gifted and I am thankful beyond words.
I am very happy you stuck with it. Now you have learn a very useful enameling trick!
Great job, they look like a happy family.
Cheers and keep enameling!! And thank you for sharing with all of us.
Just wanted to share the finished product
My jewel has a new home on this silver belt buckle.
Thanks again Patsy you are the BEST!
Wow that is gorgeous! Thanks for sharing.
Happy Enameling, Patsy
Yes I added ng302 instead of rf1 and it worked however now my dome has inverted so the whole piece is trashed. Wish it could be saved
Looks good now, and you know on your test plate of opals as they are lined up and fired all at once
you can see which ones fire first and know which are hard firing and medium. Just don’t put in same cell when using cloisonne technique.
BUT Don’t give up, you have come so far! Tell me how did you dome it in the first place?
I use this doming tool, it is very heavy and I put my fine silver piece in place added the top on and push down. Works great.
yes Shirley, you can see Nina had the same idea, enamelist have used this for centuries.
So heat the jewel and heat the two parts of the punch and block. I sit mine on top of the kiln.
Take a couple of practice runs so it is easy and you do not burn yourself. I have a tile next to my kiln where I can sit the hot tools.
Wearing gloves, place the hot tools on the side of your kiln, and quickly take the jewel out of the kiln and place into the block face down and push the punch down just like you did to form it.
it should be all restored. *))
Wow ok I will try Makes me very nervous
Will be back soon
Hi, Shirley
Would you mind to share where you found these large doming tools?
https://www.airgraver.com/Engraving%20Accessories.htm
5 inch is what I used.
Hi, Shirley
Heat it again, put on a hot metal plate immediately after kiln and press with hot iron. I do it often if enamel warps.
Hi Nina
This is the link to the company where I got the dome set I use the large size Hope this helps If you have trouble let me know
https://www.airgraver.com/Engraving%20Accessories.htm
ok, I sanded down but I still have valley. Should I refill with RF1?
Hi Shirley, I am bit concerned with the hardness of the RF1. If you remember the cracking was not appearing till you were nearing your completion point and it was the RF1 that started the cracking .
Beside the counter enamel, which is always our first culprate, you fixed but still had a crack in the right horse’s blaze.
I think when you go back and add enamel to fill the valley try a lower fusing opal enamel. RF1 is a high fusing opal = hard and when sharing a cell with a low or medium fusing enamel it can crack.
So let’s be sure. Try NG 302 I saw that on your test plate earlier.
added another counter and the cracks healed, yahoo!
Awesome, now back to the front, how does that look?
Carved it out and seem to have more cracks
Oh my! yes, these really look like a counter enamel problem. If you have a hard time calculating how much counter enamel you have on your jewel, while enameling place a small circle of cloison wire on the back. Then as you enamel you will know for sure it is matching the front layers.
Please take a photo of the jewel eye level and horizontal for us to check the counter.
added more counter, still have cracking
Shirley, try to carve out the crack and lets see if it will heal. It might have some contamination.
Patsy
Patsy
I cant get the crack to heal Now there is a bubble in the crack Should I remove the bubble and refire?
Can I fire the piece upside down without distorting the front picture?
I would drill out the bubble and clean it well under running water with use a glass brush. Let it dry and refire. Sure you can fire it upside down on a trivet. And while you are at it add another layer of counter enamel.
Shirley, always the first thing we think of when there is a crack is to check your counter enamel. You need the same amount of counter as layers of enamel you put on the front. So now if it is uneven add counter and see if the crack heals. Let me know. Patsy
Patsy
Thank you for the info This worked great.
Also allowed me to watch my design and fix some things before I got to far into the actual enameling process i.e. The ears being to large for the piece I have time to take out and change the size without major demolition further down the road.
Thanks for all the help Your the best!
So glad I could help. Looking forward to seeing your progress!
Patsy
Hi Patsy
Do I have to form all my wires at the same time?
I have a large piece with a lot of wires.
Hi Shirley,
Great question, if you mean do you have to fuse all your wires in place on the first firing of your flux? I say no. In my large pieces I lay down my larges wires first. The dominate ones that help me keep my placement of the design. Then I begin with what I would call secondary lines.
While we are only using flux nothing will burn and this really helps if the fine silver base is domed. I can tilt the jewel to add wires that would normally slide off edges while placing it in the kiln.
Have a great day, Patsy
Beth thank you for sharing!