Here are two artist wiling to look at your repair needs.
Here are two artist wiling to look at your repair needs.
Repairing a beautiful 18k Gold Enameled Locket.
When asked by the client if it could be repaired I took a couple of steps to insure them and myself it was possible. They sent me several photos of the locket and had a jeweler in their town verify the karat to be 18k. Enamels are glass really, and we melt it basically. When we crack an enamel jewel in setting, which most of us have several times, we learn we can re-fire it and save, our could be loss.
I am not sure if most enamelist realize the enamel jewel cracks every time you place it in the kiln. The good part of this is, yes you can re-fire and mend cracks. But one thing to know the enamel can shift in the re-firing. In this project the tiny designs were decals and when fired too many times will show movement. You have to be careful and not over fire and cause movement!
Yesterday, I carefully looked at the piece and the chips of enamel and started testing. First I wanted to know I could match the color of enamel.
And I was excited that Bovano’s 27 matched perfectly! Next is to know to the melting point of a chip next to Bovano’s 27 in hopes they would flow at the same temperature and timing. On a test plate, I used a small chip from the locket and a small amount of Bovano’s #27 and fired at 1425 for 1:15 minutes and they both fused.
Here I placed the locket front only on a trivet face down, and slowly heated it with a acetylene torch just enough to add Fire Scoff flux. When I enamel the jewel I would like to avoid oxidation. Looks good.
Next fuse the chips back on and add the new enamel.
After fusing the new enamel on the jewel I noticed the circular cracks were still present. They were there when I first inspected the jewel. I thought at that time it was from the accident the client had and was part of the repair. But being they were still visible after the firing, I realized the enamel is mounted up on the red areas, to show relief. I have tried this in my work and there is a point you can have high spots but if it gets too high it will crack off. Also there is no counter enamel. So I sanded it down with a diamond bur the an arkansas stone.
Ready for the last firing and do not forget to glass brush well so you have no dust of the glass or arkansas stone and the locket is free of cracks and ready to go home to it’s owner.
Enamels are not very difficult to repair. If a enamel jewel has been dropped and cracked you can clean the piece with a jeweler’s steamer to remove any dirt that might have made it’s way into the crack. Let it dry!! on top of the kiln works well. Then fire. Use the same temperatures yo know for the base metal of the jewel, usually around 1450 degrees, and the firing times you know from the size of the piece. There will be an indention in the work and you will need to choose to fill with a soft firing flux that is made to be a top coat like Ninomiya N4 or sand the piece down to match the surface again.
In the initial firing I recommend checking on the piece in the kiln through time to see when the enamel flows. Especially if it is not a piece you have made. This way you will know if the enamels are harder firing or softer firing. Then you can match what enamel you decide to add.
I can across this in a repair of a bangle bracelet from India. The enamel was much harder than any I had. But the design of the bracelet was in cloisonne and I was able to remove all the red in the broken cell and apply new enamel.
When you need to remove trash or a bubble in the cloisonne enamel jewel, use a diamond bur. And save this bur for only your cloisonne and enamel repair. A good quality bur, as the diamonds are smaller and spaced close together. If they are large a spaced out too much it will rip the enamel instead of a fine sanding.
One of the most important things is to glass brush the sanded area, be sure it is dry and fire. This way there is no shadow of the cloisonne repair work.And now you can apply more enamels to level the repair of the jewel.
There is more detail on this under Cloisonne and Repairing Cloisonne.
Back to play!
I received a piece of cloisonne this week broken and wanted to share the repair process. The piece was dropped and the enamel had completely separated from the fine silver base. Here in the photo the broken piece is sitting on a new sheet of fine silver, that has one layer of flux fired on its front, and four layers of counter enamel fired on the back of the new base . I filled the backside of the enamel piece with a very thin coat of flux, hoping this would give it a solid bond to the base, when fired. There were some cavities on the back of the broken enamel piece from the separation of the base, here I added a bit more flux, hoping to keep the enamel from sinking or forming bubbles. Next, the piece was fired in a kiln at 1400 degrees. You can see in the photo the base silver is larger then the broken enamel piece. Once it was fired and the broken enamel piece fused to the base, I could clean the edges of the enamel piece that was discolored. It was too fragile to attempt this prior to attaching it to the base. I used a diamond ball bur to clean around the edges.
The holes in the enamel piece are where bubbles did form. I needed to remove these to prevent the piece from cracking in the future. A diamond ball bur was used again, to bur through the enamel and open the bubbles. The right hole is not burred out completely. I wanted you to see what to expect as you are drilling. This is a small pin hole which will open into the whole bubble as you proceed. The left bubbles have been opened completely, which is necessary to allow the enamel to flow smoothly into the opening.
In the third photo you can see how smoothly the enamel flowed into the openings. Even though the enamel is lower than the cloison wires, which you would expect, I have a choice to fill with matching color, or sand down the high spots.
One very important point is to fire the enamel piece you have used a diamond bur on before adding new enamel. If you add enamels to the burred area, then fire, you will have shadows in the finished enamel piece. I have also seen burnish marks in the enamels after drilling out the bubble and have concluded it can from the diamonds being worn off the bur. In this case get a new diamond bur and go over the surface are to remove the burnish marks. I have used Arkansas stones as well for repairs.